Tutorial Tuesdays: Drafting a Shirt Collar

Pinterest 800 x 400 Featured Header CanvapsToday I’d like to show you how I draft my shirt collars. This one is from the Knock Off Polo, but you can use these drafting instructions for other types of shirts as well. The drafting method below has been adapted from The Pattern Making Primer by Jo Barnfield and Andrew Richards. For alternative methods, I’d also recommend Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear by  Winifred Aldrich. Great resources!

NOTE: These diagrams are not to scale.

Step One: Take your shirt’s full neckline measurement and also the back (only) neckline measurement.  I prefer to take my measurement directly from the shirt itself after the placket has been added, but in this tutorial, I’m including a “button extension” in the drafting. So, this draft does not include the placket in the neckline measurement.

Step Two:

Draft Collar Stand

  • Draw a rectangle 1/2 of the neckline measurement in length and approximately 1.25” in height (This  stand height can be adjusted to preference. ) Mark  Center Back (CB) point on collar. From CB, mark your shoulder point with a vertical line  using 1/2 of the back neckline measurement. (My back collar measurement was 7″. I marked my shoulder point at 3.5″ from CB.
  •  Slash your vertical line and carefully overlap your top edge by 3/16″.
  • Trace the adjusted collar stand smoothing out your curves. Draw a button stand extension out from center front (CF) equal to the width of placket. Round out the top of button stand extension.

Draft Collar Fall

  • Using your collar stand as a guide, draw a perpendicular line 1.5″ down from the top of the center back (CB) line. Draw another perpendicular line 2″ down from the top of the center front (CF) line (not collar band extension). Connect the two lines.
  • Divide your collar into 3rds. Slash and spread each collar section by 1/8″. Trace new collar.

There you have it. Your collar and stand!!! Don’t forget to mark your pattern pieces. Your center back for your collar and stand will be cut on the fold. You’ll need to cut two of each (plus interfacing if you plan to use it.)

Not quite sure what to do with your pattern pieces now?  Here’s a great tutorial on assembling and attaching collars  from Pam over at Sew off the Cuff. Find more great sewing tutorials from others and suggestions on my Pinterest Sewing page.

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Thanks for stopping by today.

Keep doin’ what you love!

Shannon

 

 

  • Jacqueline

    Love this blog and im glad i found it! Continue to inspire!

    • Shannon_CC

      Hi new friend! Thanks for stopping by today!

  • Suzanne Winter

    wish I had seen your awesome tutorial a few days ago ;op I used a meh pattern… well at least I can make my own in the future ;o)

    • Shannon_CC

      I like this method because once you get the hang of it, you don’t have to remember as many steps as some of the more technical drafting options.

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  • Laureline

    Exactly what I was looking for. I usually don’t post any comments, but I couldn’t resist it, your boy is so good looking in his polo ! Congratulations (for both ;-) ).
    And thank you so much for sharing !

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