Today I’d like to show you how I draft my shirt collars. This one is from the Knock Off Polo, but you can use these drafting instructions for other types of shirts as well. The drafting method below has been adapted from The Pattern Making Primer by Jo Barnfield and Andrew Richards. For alternative methods, I’d also recommend Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear by Winifred Aldrich. Great resources!
NOTE: These diagrams are not to scale.
Step One: Take your shirt’s full neckline measurement and also the back (only) neckline measurement. I prefer to take my measurement directly from the shirt itself after the placket has been added, but in this tutorial, I’m including a “button extension” in the drafting. So, this draft does not include the placket in the neckline measurement.
Draft Collar Stand
- Draw a rectangle 1/2 of the neckline measurement in length and approximately 1.25” in height (This stand height can be adjusted to preference. ) Mark Center Back (CB) point on collar. From CB, mark your shoulder point with a vertical line using 1/2 of the back neckline measurement. (My back collar measurement was 7″. I marked my shoulder point at 3.5″ from CB.
- Slash your vertical line and carefully overlap your top edge by 3/16″.
- Trace the adjusted collar stand smoothing out your curves. Draw a button stand extension out from center front (CF) equal to the width of placket. Round out the top of button stand extension.
Draft Collar Fall
- Using your collar stand as a guide, draw a perpendicular line 1.5″ down from the top of the center back (CB) line. Draw another perpendicular line 2″ down from the top of the center front (CF) line (not collar band extension). Connect the two lines.
- Divide your collar into 3rds. Slash and spread each collar section by 1/8″. Trace new collar.
There you have it. Your collar and stand!!! Don’t forget to mark your pattern pieces. Your center back for your collar and stand will be cut on the fold. You’ll need to cut two of each (plus interfacing if you plan to use it.)
Not quite sure what to do with your pattern pieces now? Here’s a great tutorial on assembling and attaching collars from Pam over at Sew off the Cuff. Find more great sewing tutorials from others and suggestions on my Pinterest Sewing page.
Thanks for stopping by today.
Keep doin’ what you love!