Pinterest 800 x 400 Featured Header CanvapsToday I’d like to show you how I draft my shirt collars. This one is from the Knock Off Polo, but you can use these drafting instructions for other types of shirts as well. The drafting method below has been adapted from The Pattern Making Primer by Jo Barnfield and Andrew Richards. For alternative methods, I’d also recommend Metric Pattern Cutting for Children’s Wear by  Winifred Aldrich. Great resources!

NOTE: These diagrams are not to scale.

Step One: Take your shirt’s full neckline measurement and also the back (only) neckline measurement.  I prefer to take my measurement directly from the shirt itself after the placket has been added, but in this tutorial, I’m including a “button extension” in the drafting. So, this draft does not include the placket in the neckline measurement.

Step Two:

Draft Collar Stand

  • Draw a rectangle 1/2 of the neckline measurement in length and approximately 1.25” in height (This  stand height can be adjusted to preference. ) Mark  Center Back (CB) point on collar. From CB, mark your shoulder point with a vertical line  using 1/2 of the back neckline measurement. (My back collar measurement was 7″. I marked my shoulder point at 3.5″ from CB.
  •  Slash your vertical line and carefully overlap your top edge by 3/16″.
  • Trace the adjusted collar stand smoothing out your curves. Draw a button stand extension out from center front (CF) equal to the width of placket. Round out the top of button stand extension.

Draft Collar Fall

  • Using your collar stand as a guide, draw a perpendicular line 1.5″ down from the top of the center back (CB) line. Draw another perpendicular line 2″ down from the top of the center front (CF) line (not collar band extension). Connect the two lines.
  • Divide your collar into 3rds. Slash and spread each collar section by 1/8″. Trace new collar.

There you have it. Your collar and stand!!! Don’t forget to mark your pattern pieces. Your center back for your collar and stand will be cut on the fold. You’ll need to cut two of each (plus interfacing if you plan to use it.)

Not quite sure what to do with your pattern pieces now?  Here’s a great tutorial on assembling and attaching collars  from Pam over at Sew off the Cuff. Find more great sewing tutorials from others and suggestions on my Pinterest Sewing page.

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Thanks for stopping by today.

Keep doin’ what you love!

Shannon

 

 

Isn’t it funny how a project can morph into something completely different and unexpected? This top started out as a dress. I had it all drawn out on my pretty paper. I even colored it with my brand new markers (Ha! Ha!).  It wasn’t until I cut out all of the pieces and started assembling everything that I began to rethink things. There was something about the extra long straps in the back that I thought would look much better draped over a pair of jeans than a puffy skirt bottom. So, I went with it. Plus, it’s almost summer time, and I have a strong suspicion that my girls will spend a lot more time outside chasing their brothers than they will inside having dainty tea parties. So, a summer top it is! The skirt pieces will definitely be used, just not today:) (more…)

We’re spending family time at our local Martin Luther King, Jr.’s parade today. Truthfully,  I’ve never been really “big” on parades (I think it’s all the standing around and waiting), but I am big on remembering the blessings of  freedom, unconditional love, and positive change. It’s all good stuff, and I’m thankful to be spending this day of rememberance with those that I love. Hope your day is super fantastic!

*I may not be sewing today, but I am thinking about it. It’s pretty cold outside (see my little man bundled up to the left?), so  bound buttonholes and a new winter coat for mommy may not be too far away.

Keep doing what you love!

Shannon

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